Open Access Research Article
PRETTY LIES: UNMASKING GREENWASHING IN COSMETICS INDUSTRY BY: RIDHA FATHIMA M & NUHA HAJIRA K
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AUTHORED BY: RIDHA
FATHIMA M & NUHA HAJIRA K
Designation: Student
Institution: Tamil Nadu
Dr. Ambedkar Law University (SOEL)
ABSTRACT
This study examines the widespread
problem of "greenwashing" in the cosmetics and beauty sector,
exposing the deliberate exploitation of intellectual property rights (IPR) to
deceive customers via case studies. The study analyses how trademarks and copyrights
are used to preserve and disseminate unfounded environmental claims, and it
looks at how social media platforms utilise influencer marketing and
user-generated content to reinforce greenwashing claims. Through an analysis of
case studies of well-known businesses, such as the internationally renowned The
Body Shop and India's Patanjali, the research seeks to reveal the complex
strategies employed to provide a misleading picture of sustainability. The
research aims to uncover recurrent patterns of greenwashing and the particular
IPR mechanisms that support such activities by a thorough investigation of the
marketing tactics and IPR portfolios of these businesses. In the end, this
study advances our critical awareness of the problems that the beauty industry
faces as a result of greenwashing, providing information that consumers,
industry stakeholders, and governments may use to solve this urgent problem.
Keywords: greenwashing, beauty industry, cosmetics,
ipr, trademarks, copyrights, social media, influencer marketing, consumer
deception, sustainability, environmental claims, deceptive marketing
INTRODUCTION
Greenwashing occurs when companies
deceitfully present themselves as environmentally responsible in order to
capitalize on the increasing awareness of consumers regarding environmental
issues. Many companies in sectors like FMCG and textiles assert their
commitment to sustainable practices without offering proof, deceiving customers
and increasing their profits by appearing environmentally conscious. For
example, businesses could give discounts for bringing back plastic containers
in order to promote recycling, but this can lead to higher consumption and an
increase in plastic garbage. In order to address greenwashing, businesses must
disclose their recycling methods and the effects of their environmentally
friendly projects.
The existing rules in India, such as
those set by the Advertising Standards Council of India (ASCI), deal with
misleading advertising but do not have precise regulations against
greenwashing. Strong regulations on environmental ad claims would uphold
consumer trust and ensure companies are held responsible. The beauty industry,
especially the natural segment, lacks proper regulation, enabling brands to
falsely advertise as "natural" or "organic."
Although the shift towards
sustainable consumption is encouraging, consumers must remain cautious of
greenwashing strategies. Genuine organic products must have natural components
cultivated without artificial chemicals, and packaging should be examined for
the organic content percentage to verify legitimacy.
LITERATURE
REVIEW
Greenwashing, a major problem in the
cosmetics industry, occurs when companies inaccurately present themselves as
eco-friendly. In its 2024 report, the Changing Markets Foundation exposes that
top cosmetic companies like L’Oréal, P&G, and L’Occitane have faced
backlash for deceptive sustainability assertions. Changing Markets Foundation,
2024, pointed out issues with P&G's Head & Shoulders using ocean-bound
plastic in bottles and L'Oréal's claim of "100% recycled plastic"
only applying to the bottle, not the cap.
The issue of packaging waste remains
a critical problem, as conventional plastic packaging continues to cause major
environmental pollution. According to reports, despite many brands switching to
recycled or biodegradable materials, these options frequently do not
effectively decrease the overall environmental footprint (Euromonitor, 2018).
Challenges like the limited recyclability of materials such as flexible pouches
undermine the efficiency of eco-friendly packaging (Changing Markets
Foundation, 2024).
Cosmetic components are also a factor
in environmental and health issues. Substances like parabens, phthalates, and
artificial fragrances have been associated with health problems such as
hormonal imbalances and allergies (Consumer Reports, 2021). Even though natural
ingredients are seen as safer, they come with environmental consequences, often
leading to high resource consumption and ecological effects.
Consumer awareness and behavior
towards sustainability in the cosmetics industry are changing. Consumers are
now looking for products with reputable certifications and clear claims due to
the growing attention on greenwashing. Yet, there are still differences in what
consumers expect and what companies actually do for the environment,
emphasizing the importance of stronger regulations (Nielsen, 2020; KPMG, 2021).
Certifications like Ecocert and
COSMOS set guidelines for organic and sustainable methods, but issues in
implementation and oversight hinder their ability to combat greenwashing
effectively (Ecocert, 2023; International Organization for Standardization,
2022). This critique highlights the importance of increased transparency and
accountability in the cosmetics sector to tackle the issues caused by
greenwashing and ensure authentic sustainability.
ORGANIC VS
NATURAL
Organic Organic beauty products are created
using natural ingredients that are cultivated without artificial fertilizers,
pesticides, herbicides, and synthetic chemicals. The products must not contain
parabens, sulfates, artificial colors, or fragrances, and should be produced
using sustainable land management methods. Nevertheless, items identified as
"organic" may not genuinely be organic, as they simply require a
limited portion of organic components to receive the designation. In order to
verify authenticity, consumers must examine the amount of organic ingredients
indicated on the product.
Natural Natural ingredients are derived from
natural sources and are free from synthetic chemicals and GMOs, but may still
undergo heavy processing.
Paraphrased: Ingredients that are
natural come from natural sources and do not contain synthetic chemicals or
GMOs, yet they may still be heavily processed. Many companies use the terms
"natural" and "organic" loosely because there are no
official definitions for them in the cosmetics industry. Certification
organizations such as COSMOS and EcoCert establish requirements for natural and
organic products, though their specifications differ. Consumers must examine
brands and review ingredient lists to validate assertions.
GREEN
MARKETING VS GREEN WASHING
Green marketing
Green marketing is authentic and
transparent, with products and services from companies adhering to specific
criteria.
·
Constructed
from materials that can be recycled or have already been recycled.
·
Devoid
of harmful or ozone-depleting substances;
·
Made
with eco-friendly materials;
·
Produced
without the necessity for extra packaging;
·
Created
with the intention of being fixed and utilized again instead of being
discarded.
Businesses that are committed to
sustainable development and corporate social responsibility (CSR) are more
likely to engage in green marketing. An increasing number of companies are
striving to adopt sustainable business practices. They realize that reducing
costs related to packaging, shipping, energy consumption, water usage, and
other aspects can enhance the attractiveness of their products to customers.
Green marketing should not be
confused with greenwashing. It hinders sustainable development by focusing on
promoting sustainability through increased efforts and funding, rather than
implementing eco-friendly practices deliberately or unintentionally. Speaking
without taking action is exactly that. Simply put, if greenwashing were
genuine, it would be considered green marketing. Unfortunately, most products
featuring green labels are, in fact, greenwashed.
Green Marketing is the promotion of
products that highlight their eco-friendliness, like lower emissions during
production or the use of recycled materials. Some corporations also give
contributions to environmental projects. This strategy targets consumers who
are environmentally aware.
Greenwashing
Greenwashing, also called "Green
sheen," is a marketing tactic in which companies inaccurately present
themselves as eco-friendly to deceive consumers. This habit leads consumers to
think they are contributing to the environment, despite actually engaging in a
form of deception like "whitewashing" that disguises unethical
actions. Greenwashing takes advantage of the absence of regulations within
sectors such as beauty and sunscreen, creating challenges for consumers in
identifying truly environmentally responsible brands versus those that employ
deceptive marketing to appear sustainable.
Regulation Gaps: Due to their relative lack of
regulation, the beauty and natural industries are more susceptible to
greenwashing, or making false claims. In the UK, the Competition & Markets
Authority (CMA) discovered that companies may be deceiving about up to 40% of
their green claims. The integrity of the sector, the environment, and consumer
protection are all at risk due to this lack of regulation.
Reasons behind Greenwashing:
1. Increase Demand: There is a growing
market for environmentally friendly goods.
2. Positive Corporate Image: To boost
sales, present the business as socially conscious.
Consumer Differentiation: The absence
of clear regulatory standards for terminology like "natural" and
"organic" in cosmetics makes it difficult to distinguish between real
green marketing and greenwashing. Claims about eco-friendliness on misleading
packaging can mislead customers. Consumers should check ingredient lists and
seek out certificates to ensure authenticity claims
As examples, consider:
•
NATARUE Certification: Purposes to uphold strict guidelines and foster the growth of organic
and natural cosmetics.
•
PEFC Certification: Verifies that wood products come from forests that are managed
sustainably.
Legislation and rules that are more
explicit about what qualifies as natural, organic, and bio goods are necessary
as the prevalence of greenwashing increases. Customers need to be aware and on
guard to prevent being duped by greenwashing techniques.
FORMS OF
GREENWASHING
The Seven Sins of Greenwashing by
Terra Choice:
An environmental marketing ?rm called
Terra Choice[1] has
created a classi?cation called “the seven sins of greenwashing”.
1.
The sin of the hidden trade-o?: A statement that implies a product is "green"
without taking into account other significant environmental challenges, based
on a limited set of criteria. For example, just because paper is derived from a
forest that is responsibly harvested does not mean that it is better for the
environment. Other significant environmental problems associated with the
production of paper, including greenhouse gas emissions or the usage of
chlorine in bleaching, might be just as significant.
2.
The sin of no proof: an environmental statement that isn't supported by easily obtainable
information or a trustworthy third-party certification. Products like face or
toilet tissues that make claims about the proportion of post-consumer recycled
content without offering supporting data are common instances.
3.
The sin of vagueness: A claim that lacks specifics and is either excessively broad or poorly
defined, making it likely that the consumer will misinterpret what it really
means. A Formaldehyde, uranium, mercury, and arsenic are all hazardous
substances found in nature. ‘All natural’ isn’t necessarily ‘green’.[2]
4.
The sin of worshipping false labels: A product that deceives customers into believing it
has undergone a genuine green certification procedure by using a deceptive
suggestion or certification-like picture. One such product is a paper towel
that claims to "fight global warming" on its box, complete with an
illustration resembling a certificate.
5.
The sin of irrelevance: a truthful environmental claim that is either irrelevant or
of little use to customers looking for products that are better for the
environment. One typical example is the claim that a product is
"CFC-free," regardless of this is banned by law.
6.
The sin of lesser of two evils: Within the product category, this claim might be accurate,
but it runs the danger of drawing the consumer's attention away from the
category's overall bigger environmental implications. Sustainably produced
smokes and fuel-efficient sport utility vehicles are two possible examples of
this sin.
7.
The sin of ?bbing: Environmental statements that are merely untrue. The most frequent
instances were goods making fraudulent claims to be Energy Star registered or
certified.
FIRM-LEVEL
AND PRODUCT/SERVICE LEVEL GREENWASHING
Delmas and Burbano[3] classifies
greenwashing into firm-level and product/service level greenwashing.
Product/service level greenwashing refers to a product or service's environmental
benefits, whereas firm-level greenwashing is the act of deceiving customers
about an organization's environmental practices.
The "Ecomagination"
campaign by General Electric, which promoted the company's environmental
initiatives while simultaneously advocating against new clean air EPA
regulations, is an illustration of firm-level greenwashing. The LG
refrigerators that are mis-certified as Energy Star are an example of
greenwashing at the product level. The eco-label claimed energy efficiency.
After more investigation, it was discovered that the 10 LG refrigerator models
did not satisfy the energy efficiency requirements needed to be certified.
Claim greenwashing and Executional
greenwashing are the two subcategories of methods that emerge when examining
firm- or product-level greenwashing more closely. Claim greenwashing refers to
the employment of textual arguments that make false environmental claims while
making references, either directly or indirectly, to the ecological or
environmental benefits of using a product or service.
Typically, you’ll see these three
categories of claim greenwashing:
1. those employing false claims;
2. those omitting important information
that could help evaluate the claim sincerity, and
On the other hand, executional
greenwashing makes no use of any textual assertions. This tactic incorporates
aspects of nature, such organic colors and sounds, into their packaging and
marketing. A well-executed greenwashing campaign can be seen in the backgrounds
of ads or products with a natural theme, images of endangered animals, or
images of renewable energy sources. These components can influence a consumer's
impression by using natural images and triggering positive associations,
leading them to assume that a certain company or/and their goods (services) are
environmentally friendly. [5]
RESEARCH
METHODOLOGY
a.
Primary Data:
Primary data was gathered through a Google Forms survey distributed to a
diverse sample of respondents. The survey aimed to capture consumer attitudes
and awareness regarding greenwashing in cosmetics, as well as their perceptions
of sustainability claims. The questionnaire included both quantitative and
qualitative questions to gather comprehensive insights into consumer behavior
and opinions.
b.
Secondary Data:
Data was collected from a range of online sources, including academic journals,
industry reports, and reputable websites. This data provided a foundational
understanding of greenwashing practices, environmental impacts, and consumer
perceptions within the cosmetics industry. Key sources included Changing
Markets Foundation reports, Euromonitor studies, and Environmental Working
Group analyses.
RESULTS OF
GOOGLE FORM
We sent the survey to individuals and
received approximately 110 responses. Among these, 76% were from respondents
aged 16-25, while the remaining were aged 25 and above. Of the total responses,
83% were female. Additionally, 61% of the respondents were students, while the
rest were working professionals or housewives.
Many people were not aware of the
tern green washing even if they know something like this existed.
With the response of the people we
found out students spend upto rs 5000 on average for skincare, haircare and
cosmetics
With the response we came to know
most of the people buy products based on the ingredients present in it.
With this we got to know a more than
half of the ratio of people were aware of sustainable cosmetic products
With response from both the questions
combined we found out 20-30% of people always look for sustainable products and
then it gradually reduces to people not always looking for sustainable
products.
With the response from the above
question we found that most of the people only sometimes seek out for
information on brands environmental practice before buying from them
It was very clear that, most of the
people make a purchase because of word of mouth then influencers and lastly ads
It was to our surprise to find that
the response from the above two questions that around 60-70% of people are
interested in purchasing from sustainable brands and to also pay more for it.
GREENWASHING,
PURCHASE INTENT, AND BRAND IMAGE
purchasing Intent and Brand Image: A
consumer's impression of a brand's image has a significant impact on their
purchasing intentions. Customers are more likely to trust a brand that is
strong and positive, which increases sales and loyalty. Brands need to have a
strong green image in order to stand out as consumer knowledge and
environmental concerns rise.
Effect of Greenwashing: Even if they are unfamiliar with the word, consumers are growing more conscious of greenwashing. Greenwashing can seriously harm a company's reputation and credibility. Customers may feel misled and lose faith in a business if it is shown to be engaging in greenwashing, which would reduce sales and loyalty. Even if a product seems eco-friendly or if a corporation seems dedicated to sustainability, this can nonetheless occur.
The fallout from greenwashing
Effect of Greenwashing: Even if they are unfamiliar with the word, consumers are growing more conscious of greenwashing. Greenwashing can seriously harm a company's reputation and credibility. Customers may feel misled and lose faith in a business if it is shown to be engaging in greenwashing, which would reduce sales and loyalty. Even if a product seems eco-friendly or if a corporation seems dedicated to sustainability, this can nonetheless occur.
The fallout from greenwashing
·
Consumer
deception: People may select items they think are environmentally beneficial,
even while they are not.
·
Environmental
Damage: In an effort to save money, businesses may compromise sustainability,
which depletes resources and contributes to pollution.
·
Erosion
of Trust: When customers learn that a company engages in greenwashing, they may
feel deceived and have less faith in the brand and its offerings.
Greenwashing hurts the entire industry in
addition to the implicated brand. It may result in a broad drop in customer
confidence, which would make it more difficult for firms that are truly
sustainable to win people over. In order to stand out from competitors who use
greenwashing tactics, sustainable firms need to put in more effort into
correctly and clearly communicating their environmental initiatives and
sincerity.
GREENWASHING THROUGH INTELLECTUAL
PROPERTY RIGHTS (IPR) IN THE COSMETIC INDUSTRY:
The cosmetic industry is
characterized by rapid innovation and intense competition, increasingly
leveraging Intellectual Property Rights (IPR) to protect products and
processes. However, the rising allure of sustainability and environmental
consciousness has led to a surge in "green" cosmetic products,
accompanied by the deceptive practice of greenwashing. Greenwashing involves
marketing products as environmentally friendly without substantive evidence,
often intersecting with IPR, including trademarks, patents, and packaging designs.
GREENWASHING
MECHANISM IPR
1.
Trademarks:
Businesses imply sustainability with
words like "natural," "eco," or "green" in their
brand names, logos, and taglines.
Even if the items don't adhere to the
suggested environmental criteria, it might be challenging to challenge these
trademarks because they are protected by IPR rules.
2. Patents:
Businesses claim minimal environmental
advantages from small product improvements that they receive patents for.
Through deceptive marketing, patents
enhance the company's eco-friendly image by providing a façade of innovation
and sustainability.
2. Design of Packaging
Eco-friendly packaging designs are
intended to convey the idea of a generally sustainable product. These designs
are shielded by trade dress and design patents.This tactic deceives customers
by associating environmentally friendly packaging with environmentally friendly
products.
3. Labels and Marks of Certification:
While some businesses design their
own certification marks to resemble legitimate eco-labels, they don't follow
strict verification procedures.
These IPR-protected trademarks may
deceive customers into thinking that a product's environmental claims have been
independently evaluated.
4. Consequences for the Environment and
Customers:
•
Misled
consumers frequently pay more for products that fall short of their
environmental claims.
•
When
unsustainable methods persist under the pretence of green marketing, the
environment suffers.
•
Dishonest
business practices can result in a decline in customer confidence, a drop in
revenue, a rise in client turnover, harm to one's reputation, and more
regulatory attention
Consumer and Regulatory Actions:
•
Tighter
Rules and Implementation:
In order to make sure that
environmentally friendly patents, trademarks, and design rights actually assist
the environment, regulatory agencies must carefully examine them.
Strict regulations and openness can
reduce the abuse of intellectual property rights in the continuation of
greenwashing.
•
Encouragement
of Conscientious Knowledge Transfer (KT):
Ensuring, in order to stop the
dissemination of false information, that businesses purchasing or licensing
green technologies are fully aware of their environmental repercussions.
•
Educated
Consumer Decisions:
In order to make educated judgements,
consumers should demand responsibility and openness from brands and look for
reliable third-party certifications.
IPR laws are crucial for safeguarding
inventions and brand identities, but they can also be abused to encourage greenwashing
in the cosmetics sector. To address this issue and promote a truly sustainable
industry, strong regulatory frameworks, strict enforcement, transparent
certification procedures, and educated consumer choices are necessary.
GREENWASHING
INFLUENCER MARKETING
Influencer marketing makes use of
social media influencers' credibility and reach to market items by taking
advantage of their power to influence consumer perceptions. Influencers are
essential in the cosmetics market as they promote items by stressing their
features and advantages. However, when influencers advocate items with
incorrect or deceptive environmental claims, this potent instrument can also
contribute to the practice of "greenwashing."
Greenwashing in Beauty Products:
Greenwashing is the term for when businesses give false information about
sustainable practices, overstate the environmental benefits of their packaging,
or exaggerate the use of natural ingredients in their products. Such claims can
spread widely and frequently go undetected since there are no uniform laws or
certification requirements.
THE
INFLUENCER MARKETING -GREENWASHING NEXUS
When influencers promote products
with questionable environmental credentials, their large followings and
perceived sincerity can magnify the messaging associated with greenwashing.
Influencers may unintentionally (or intentionally) contribute to the greenwashing
narrative by endorsing items that aren't actually sustainable if they promote
them using unsubstantiated claims or deceptive marketing collateral.
An influencer might, for instance,
support a skincare brand that makes the claim to be "100% natural and
eco-friendly" without doing any research on the subject. The influencer's
support may give the items a false sense of sustainability if they are not
supported by clear data or if they have dangerous chemicals
Taking Action: Several steps are
necessary to stop greenwashing through influencer marketing.
Accountability and Transparency:
Influencers have an obligation to confirm the claims made by the companies they
endorse, particularly with regard to sustainability.
•
Tighter
Regulations: To guarantee that all statements are accurate and supported by
evidence, regulatory organisations should impose strict rules on endorsements
and advertising.
•
Consumer
Education: It's important to motivate customers to do independent product
research and look for third-party certifications that support sustainability
promises.
IMPACT OF
GREENWASHING IN COSMETIC-INGREDIENTS IN SUSTAINABILITY
1.
Packaging: The
trash from the cosmetics industry's packaging greatly adds to the depletion of
resources and worldwide pollution from plastic. For example, approximately 7.9
billion units of cosmetic trash were created in the United States in 2018, and
this debris frequently ends up in landfills, generating greenhouse gases. Many
products are still packaged in non-biodegradable materials, even though other
brands employ environmentally friendly materials like glass and recycled
plastics. Marine life is also endangered by the microbeads included in
exfoliants. Packaging that is bio-based and compostable promotes a circular
economy and reduces waste, making it a more environmentally friendly choice.
2.
Fragrance:
Dangerous compounds like formaldehyde and toluene are frequently found in
contemporary scents, which are created from both synthetic and natural
elements. Both environmental damage and health problems may result from these
compounds. Some perfumes contain elements produced from animals, which raises
ethical questions. Glass packaging, in general, can take Glass packaging, in
particular, can take millions of years to break down and release volatile
organic compounds (VOCs) that have an effect on the quality of the air. As an example
•
Ambergris:
derived from sperm and pygmy whale intestinal secretions from the bile duct. It
smells like the sea and is waxy and firm.
•
Civet:
the glandular secretion of small African and Asian mammals known as viverrids.
In order to gather the secretion, viverrids are raised and housed in cages. The
delicate yellow substance is blended with a pleasant scent.
•
Castorum:
the anal glands, or the beaver castor sac. produces an animalistic, leathery
smell.
•
Honey:
the nectar that bees gather and keep in a honeycomb. smells flowery and
pleasant.
•
Musk:
the musk deer's glandular secretion. To obtain musk, deer are killed in the
wild. It smells complex, woodsy and earthy.
3.
Makeup: Both
natural and synthetic ingredients are used in the manufacturing of makeup,
however the latter is occasionally connected to health and environmental
concerns. Compounds like parabens and lead linger in landfills and can seep
into the ground and water, harming ecosystems and wildlife. Even while some
businesses are switching to biodegradable packaging, a large number of products
still wind up in the trash. Programs for recycling and donations do exist,
however they are not always implemented.
4.
Nail Products:
Toxic chemicals like formaldehyde and toluene found in nail paints and removers
can be harmful to the environment and human health. Polish glitter adds to the
pollution caused by microplastics. Many nail products are still not
biodegradable and can harm the environment if not disposed of correctly, even
if there are increasingly environmentally friendly solutions.
5.
Sunscreen:
Mineral-based sunscreens that contain zinc oxide have lower environmental
impact. Certifications like "Reef Safe" aid in identifying products
that are less toxic, but reducing environmental impact requires customer
understanding.
6. Cosmetic ingredients
Consumer ignorance of the many
chemicals used in cosmetics is a prevalent issue in the cosmetics industry.
It's possible that we are unaware of the multitude of chemicals that are
included in cosmetics and their various purposes. A few of these substances may
be hazardous to the environment and human health.
One often utilised substance is
parabens, a preservative that stops mould and germs from growing in cosmetic
goods. Nonetheless, a few studies have connected parabens to various health
problems including hormone imbalances.
Phthalates are another class of
chemicals that are frequently found in cosmetics; they are employed as a
solvent in scents and to give polymers more pliability. Certain phthalates have
been connected to problems with reproduction and development.
Another ingredient that's present in
a lot of cosmetics is sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS). Commonly included in
shampoos and body washes, this foaming agent can irritate skin and eyes,
particularly in those with sensitive skin.
Certain cosmetic goods, such nail
paint and hair straightening treatments, contain formaldehyde as a
preservative. It can irritate skin, though, and is a recognised carcinogen.
Cosmetics frequently contain
synthetic perfumes to give them a nice aroma. They might, however, include a
variety of potentially dangerous substances and result in allergic responses or
skin irritation.
Even if not all chemicals in
cosmetics are dangerous, it's still crucial to know what's in the products we
use and to stick to natural or organic ingredients when possible. By educating
ourselves about the chemicals commonly used in cosmetics, we can make informed
choices about the products we use and take steps to protect our health and the
environment.
Certifications
It can be challenging to distinguish between businesses that are genuinely good and those that are merely claiming to be good in light of the abundance of greenwashing and corporate opaqueness. Fortunately, a few certifications exist that have requirements that businesses must fulfil in order to get certified. These are a handful:
It can be challenging to distinguish between businesses that are genuinely good and those that are merely claiming to be good in light of the abundance of greenwashing and corporate opaqueness. Fortunately, a few certifications exist that have requirements that businesses must fulfil in order to get certified. These are a handful:
•
Ecocert: Organic and biobased cosmetics
are certified by an independent certifying authority. Products with the Ecocert
certification are guaranteed to be free of dangerous chemicals, to be produced
using eco-friendly practices, and to support fair trade.
•
COSMOS: A worldwide accreditation for
cosmetics made of organic and biobased materials. It is an alliance of five European
certifying agencies that establishes guidelines for the use of organic and
natural components, ecologically sustainable production, and ethical sourcing
raw material.
•
Leaping Bunny:
Cosmetics with this accreditation have not undergone animal testing. The
Leaping Bunny accreditation guarantees that no animals were used in the testing
of the products or their ingredients during any part of the production process.
•
Forest Stewardship Council (FSC): Cosmetics
with packaging composed of wood or paper products supplied responsibly are
certified by the FSC. The FSC accreditation guarantees that the paper or wood
used in packaging originates from responsibly managed and sustainable forests.
CASE STUDY
Background:[6]
Procter & Gamble (P&G), L'Occitane, and L'Oréal are just a few of the
well-known beauty brands that the Changing Markets Foundation has accused of
greenwashing through its website, greenwash.com. These businesses were listed
in the "hall of shame" among other well-known brands including Tesco,
Nike, and Coca-Cola.
1.Head and Shoulders of P&G:
Ocean Plastic Bottles: The use of
marine plastic in these bottles has drawn criticism because it doesn't
considerably lessen the amount of plastics that enter the ecosystem. The
bottles' 2017 UN Momentum for Change award notwithstanding, using marine
plastic has no effect.
Refillable Bottles and Pouches: Due
to their questionable environmental benefits, P&G's refillable aluminium
bottle system and pouches were closely examined. Only one bottle refill is possible
with each refill bag, and the flexible Unlike regular HDPE or PET plastic
bottles, pouches are not commonly recyclable.
Response from P&G:
P&G highlights that all Head
& Shoulders bottles are composed of 55% less virgin plastic and are
recyclable in the UK. As part of their sustainability initiatives, they have
launched innovative paper packaging and aluminium bottles. The business does
admit that they are still striving for all-encompassing answers.
2. L'Occitane
Flexible Packaging Pouches: L'Occitane
has been under fire for using flexible refillable pouches that are not
recyclable and only last for a few refills before needing to be replaced. The
advantages of their partially recyclable bottles in terms of sustainability are
compromised by this strategy.
o In-Store Refill Stations: Six UK
stores have tested refill stations for the company, however this is viewed as
inadequate in comparison to to the scale of their global operations.
L'Occitane Response:
o While L'Occitane has received
praise for their attempts to test refill stations, they are currently under
fire for using non-recyclable packaging materials.
3. L'Oréal
o Recycled Plastic Claims: Elvive
brand bottles from L'Oréal assert that they are composed entirely of recycled
plastic. Nevertheless, this assertion just pertains to the bottle and not the
cap, giving rise to allegations of deceiving customers regarding the
sustainability of the product.
Response from L'Oréal:
Although the corporation is praised
for its efforts in the sustainability department, it has come under fire for
not fully disclosing the extent of its claims regarding recycled materials.
According to research by the Changing
Markets Foundation, a number of well-known cosmetic businesses are guilty of
greenwashing, especially when it comes to their use of recyclable materials and
refillable solutions. The main points of contention are the exaggerated
statements and scant environmental advantages of their purportedly sustainable
practices. The case study underscores the need for greater transparency and
genuine commitment to sustainability in the beauty industry.
CONCLUSION
Despite its reputation for innovation
and rapid global expansion, the cosmetics sector still has a long way to go
before it can effectively combat greenwashing, which subverts real
sustainability initiatives. Even with the industry's advances in sustainable
products and eco-friendly packaging, many businesses still engage in
greenwashing, tricking customers with flimsy or false environmental claims.
The Changing Markets Foundation's
examination of well-known brands like L'Oréal, P&G, and L'Occitane brings
to light how commonplace greenwashing is in the business. The disconnect
between claimed sustainability and real environmental impact is best
illustrated by the use of plastics that end up in the ocean and refill options
that aren't very recyclable. Comparably, false statements on the effectiveness
of sustainable packaging solutions and the recyclability of materials highlight
the need for increased accountability and transparency.
It takes a multifaceted strategy to
solve these problems. Improved regulatory frameworks must to be put in place to
guarantee that sustainability claims are supported by transparent,
comprehensible data. Informed decision-making is greatly aided by consumer
education, which helps people distinguish between true sustainability and
greenwashing. In order to support their sustainability claims, businesses must
also adhere to strict certification requirements and standards, like Ecocert,
COSMOS, and Leaping Bunny.
SUGGESTIONS
1.
Strengthen Regulatory Measures: Stricter rules and regulations pertaining to environmental
claims in cosmetics should be developed and implemented by governments and
industry associations. One way to achieve this is by mandating third-party
certifications and standardising the meaning of phrases like
"natural," "organic," and "sustainable."
2.
Promote Transparency: Companies should implement transparent procedures, such as providing a
thorough explanation of the origin of ingredients, the production methods used,
and the environmental effect of packaging. Complete disclosure and clear
labelling can assist customers in making better judgements.
3.
Encourage Independent Verification: To audit and confirm sustainability claims, promote the use
of independent verification services. Reputable organisations' certifications
can contribute to consumers' confidence that products fulfil authentic
environmental criteria.
4.
Encourage Consumer Education: Create educational initiatives to increase public knowledge
of greenwashing and the effects that cosmetics have on the environment. Giving
customers the tools to investigate and validate product claims can enable them
to make more environmentally friendly decisions.
5.
Promote sector Collaboration: To exchange best practices and create standards for the
whole sector, promote cooperation between regulators, environmental organisations,
and brands. Working together can accelerate the process of minimising
greenwashing and improving sustainability
6.
Invest in Innovation: Encourage financial support for cutting-edge, environmentally friendly
products and technology. In order to improve the environmental performance of
the sector, encourage research and development for substitutes for hazardous
substances and non-recyclable packaging.
7.
Expand Programs for Recycling and Refilling: Promote the growth of recyclable
and re-usable packaging options. Companies should concentrate on creating
procedures that guarantee packaging is efficiently composted or recycled,
cutting down on waste and lessening its negative effects on the environment.
By taking care of these issues, the
cosmetics sector can go towards a more sustainable future, reducing the
prevalence of greenwashing and fostering genuine environmental stewardship.
REFERENCE
1. Published by TerraChoice, The Sins of
Greenwashing Home and Family Edition, 2010, A report environmental claims made
in North American consumer market
2. Magali A. Delmas and Vanessa Cuerel
Burbano, University of California, The Drivers of Greenwashing, on October 1st
3. Beatrice Parguel, Florence Benoit-
Moreau and Cristel Antonia Russel, Research gate, Can Evoking Nature in
Advertising Mislead Consumers? The Power of ‘Executional Greenwashing’
4. P Hartmann and V Apoalaza-Ibáñez,
Research gate, Green Branding Effects on Attitude: Functional Versus Emotional
Positioning Strategies
5. Volume 9, Dr. Mercia Selva Malar,
Renuga Devi R, Impact of Green Washing on Consumer Purchase Intention in the
Cosmetic Industry, on January 2023
6. Published by suntribe, hanna
oltmanns, greenwashing in beauty industry and what do you need to know to avoid
it, on January 11 2023
7. Published by cosmetic business, Julia
wray, L’Oréal, P&G and L'Occitane accused of greenwashing in new findings
on 30 june, 2022
[1] Published by TerraChoice, The Sins
of Greenwashing Home and Family Edition, 2010, A report environmental claims
made in North American consumer market, Last accessed on 03/08/2024.
[2] ibid
[3] Magali A. Delmas and Vanessa
Cuerel Burbano, University of California, The Drivers of Greenwashing, on
October 1st, 2011, last accessed on 03/08/2024.
[4] Beatrice Parguel, Florence Benoit-
Moreau and Cristel Antonia Russel, Research gate, Can Evoking Nature in
Advertising Mislead Consumers? The Power of ‘Executional Greenwashing’, on 26th
November 2014, last accessed on 04/08/2024.
[5] P Hartmann and V Apoalaza-Ibáñez,
Research gate, Green Branding Effects on Attitude: Functional Versus Emotional
Positioning Strategies, on 1st January 2005, last accessed on
04/08/2024.
[6] Published
by cosmetic business, Julia wray, L’Oréal, P&G and L'Occitane accused of
greenwashing in new findings on 30 june, 2022 accessed on 3 august 2024
Article Information
PRETTY LIES: UNMASKING GREENWASHING IN COSMETICS INDUSTRY BY: RIDHA FATHIMA M & NUHA HAJIRA K
Authors: RIDHA FATHIMA M, NUHA HAJIRA K
- Journal IJLRA
- ISSN 2582-6433
- Published 2024/09/16
- Issue 7
About Journal
International Journal for Legal Research and Analysis
- Abbreviation IJLRA
- ISSN 2582-6433
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